“I was advised by my senior artist friends to continue painting, as I definitely had the talent to make it in the world of art,” Athaiya wrote. Bhanu Athaiya (née Annasaheb Rajopadhye; 28 April 1929 – 15 October 2020) was an Indian costume designer. Bhanu Athaiya, Costume Designer: Lagaan: Once Upon a Time in India. When colour replaced black and white in Hindi cinema, Athaiya began tapping into her sensitivity to the distinctive Indian palette and her knowledge of local craft and weaving traditions. Athaiya worked across genres, including romance, period and thriller. Athaiya dressed a long list of movie stars. Gupta told the news agency PTI, “Eight years ago, she was diagnosed with a tumour in her brain. She bagged the Academy Award for Best Costume Design in 1983 for the film 'Gandhi'. Among the historical figures she dressed up in biopics were MK Gandhi and BR Ambedkar. [12][13], On 23 February 2012, it was reported that Athaiya wished to return her Academy Award to The Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences because she felt that her family will not be able to take care of the trophy after her demise. She was 91. “This is too good to be true,” Athaiya said in her acceptance speech. The costumes were the result of creativity as well as research. Bhanu held the prestigious distinction for 26 years before the Slumdog Millionaire crew stole the show. [1], Athaiya died on 15 October 2020 from complications of brain cancer at a medical center in South Mumbai, aged 91. Bhanu Athaiya at the Oscars in 1983 Her almost five-decade-long career in the movies has been well-chronicled and inspired several talents who came later. “I conceived and executed the entire look for this film, from the villagers of Champaner, to the British regiment and the group of English civilians,” she wrote. “The way I was made to look, it was meant to be an all-illusion; so all the costumes were in very thin fabric in skin colour,” Vyjayanthimala wrote in her autobiography Bonding... A Memoir (Stellar Publishers, 2007). 'The Last Color' review: Celebrity chef Vikas Khanna's film has got its heart at the right place Athaiya’s credits in the 2000s included Jabbar Patel’s Dr Babasaheb Ambedkar and Ashutosh Gowariker’s Swades (2004). She soon became a part of the Guru Dutt team. “There were a number of interesting requirements ranging from the cricket costumes and gear, the British military uniforms and dashing red jackets for the ball, to the ladies’ graceful evening gowns, as well as the village dresses.”. Chopra, Raj Kapoor, Vijay Anand, Raj Khosla, and Ashutosh Gowariker; and international directors such Conrad … RIP Bhanu Athaiya🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽 What an amazing, committed Costume designer she was. However, unknown to many, the first Indian to ever receive an Oscar had been Bhanu Athaiya, a costume designer, way back in 1983 for the movie Gandhi, Lord Richard Attenborough’s magnum opus. From Mumtaz’s tightly draped, flaming orange sari in Brahmachari to Sridevi’s styling in Chandni, Bhanu Athaiya crafted some of Indian cinema’s most iconic looks.India’s first-ever Oscar honoree — she won the Academy Award for Best Costume Design for Richard Attenborough's Gandhi (1982), along with John Mollo — Athaiya … [7], In a career spanning over 100 films, she worked with Indian filmmakers such as Guru Dutt, Yash Chopra, B.R. Credit: Michael Montfort/Michael Ochs Archives/Getty Images. Ashutosh Gowariker’s period drama Lagaan (2001), about a cricket match waged between Indian villagers and British colonisers, is among Athaiya’s most significant projects. Athaiya, who was then working under her maiden name Bhanu Rajopadhye, contributed three works to the third PAG show in Mumbai in 1953 – she was the only woman to have this honour. At 24, Bhanu Athaiya (then Rajopadhye), had already begun to make an impression in the circuit. The design is an example of both imagination and expediency – Mumtaz needed to freely wriggle her hips and match steps with co-star Shammi Kapoor for the vigorously choreographed track. Bhanu Athaiya, who got the coveted award for costume design in film Gandhi - wants to return it, as she feels that the government would not be … Athaiya, who worked in over 100 films, was the first Indian to win the prestigious Oscar Award. She was bedridden in recent years after … Apart from doing illustrations for Eve’s Weekly, she was designing clothes at a boutique, and her clients included movie stars such as Kamini Kaushal and Nargis. Her most well-regarded films, which sent thousands of women viewers scurrying to their tailors for knock-offs of the clothes the stars had worn on screen, included Amrapali, Waqt, Brahmachari, Teesri Manzil, Guide, Reshma Aur Shera, 1942: A Love Story, Lagaan and Swades. [11] On 13 January 2013, Athaiya presented a copy of the book to the Dalai Lama. Annasaheb Rajopadhye even co-directed a mythological, Mohini, in 1940. When a new women’s magazine called Eve’s Weekly was launched, Athaiya switched jobs. She attended a wedding to make notes on how the local women dressed and bedecked themselves, and closely studied turban tying styles. “The lyrics of the song, the mischief in Mumtaz’s eyes and the spirit of the dress all came together to create a legend in Hindi commercial cinema.” The garment, which had a zip on the side to permit easy movement, came to be known as the Mumtaz sari. Athaiya had worked on more than 100 movies since the 1950s with noted filmmakers such as Guru Dutt, Yash Chopra and Raj Kapoor. [15], Black and White / Color separate (1948–1956, 1959–1966), National Film Award for Best Costume Design, The Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences, "Oscar-winning costume designer Bhanu Athaiya passes away", "Bhanu Athaiya - India's first Oscar winner walks down memory lane", "From dandy to Dandi, it was a long journey", "Bhanu Athaiya, India's first Oscar winner, dies age 91", "Bhanu Athaiya, India's First Oscar Winner for 'Gandhi,' Dies at 91", "Veteran costume designer Bhanu Athaiya, India's first Oscar winner, dies at 91", "The Art of Costume Design, by Bhanu Rajopadhye Athaiya", "No one will fight China to make a stand for Tibet", April 2010&pubname=Times+of+India+-+Mumbai&edname=&articleid=Ar01307&publabel=TOI "Athaiya meets Dalai Lama", "First Indian to win an Oscar, Bhanu Athaiya wants to return her award", "Bhanu Athaiya returns Oscar fearing theft", "The 55th Academy Awards (1983) Nominees and Winners", Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences, British Academy of Film and Television Arts, "Filmfare: 'Jodha...' bags 5, Priyanka, Hrithik shine", "NGO to honour Bhanu Athaiya with Lifetime Achievement award", "Bhanu Athaiya movies and filmography - Cinestaan.com", https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Bhanu_Athaiya&oldid=996120353, Best Costume Design Academy Award winners, Best Costume Design National Film Award winners, Sir Jamsetjee Jeejebhoy School of Art alumni, All Wikipedia articles written in Indian English, Wikipedia articles with WORLDCATID identifiers, Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License, This page was last edited on 24 December 2020, at 17:19. Athaiya, who dressed the casts of over 100 Bollywood movies and gained international acclaim for her work on the 1982 movie “Gandhi,” died in Mumbai, according to her daughter Radhika Gupta. Athaiya also worked with Kapoor’s contemporary Guru Dutt on his productions Pyaasa (1957), Chaudhvin Ka Chand (1960) and Sahib Bibi aur Ghulam (1962). In early films, she was credited as the “dress designer”. Athaiya's father, Annasaheb was a painter. Athaiya’s contribution to Indian modernist art was commemorated by the show The Progressive Revolution: Modern Art for a New India at the Asia Society Museum in New York City in 2018. She worked at a time when the chief requirement was to make heroines look glamorous and desirable. Athaiya forged a long connection with Raj Kapoor, designing the costumes for Sangam (1964), Mera Naam Joker (1970), Satyam Shivam Sundaram (1978), Prem Rog (1982) and Ram Teri Ganga Maili (1985). The Progressive Artists’ Group had been formed around the time. While Athaiya was the first Indian to get an Oscar, she was associated with another production that made it to the shortlist of entries in the Foreign Language category. Costume designer Bhanu Athaiya, India’s first Oscar winner, died at her home on Thursday after prolonged illness, her daughter said. Co-curator Zehra Jumabhoy wrote in an essay titled A Progressive Revolution? Costume designer Bhanu Athaiya, who became the first Indian to win an Oscar, is no more. Tribute Bhanu Athaiya (1929-2020): Oscar-winning costume designer was a cut above the rest Her iconic creations shaped the look of Hindi cinema between the 1950s and the 2000s. Once again, Athaiya visited the location, in Bhuj in Gujarat, for inspiration. For the movie’s popular song Zindagi Ittefaq Hain, Mumtaz was squeezed into figure-hugging dresses with slits that conveyed her character’s sensuality. “I wanted to do full justice to Mumtaz’s attractive and free spirit,” Athaiya wrote in her memoir The Art of Costume Design (HarperCollins India, 2010). India's first Oscar winner Bhanu Athaiya passes away. Its founding members included some of India’s future canvas kings – MF Husain, FN Souza, KH Ara, SH Raza. She ended up splitting responsibilities with John Mollo, and handled all the Indian costumes. She praised her mother, Shantabai, for giving her the “freedom to move to a big city in pursuit of my studies at a time when women did not have such opportunities…”. An Oscar winner for her work in Gandhi , Ms Athaiya has been designing costumes since 1953. She was married to Satyendra Athaiya… Athaiya could recreate mundane reality as deftly as she could conjure up oopmh. She had been diagnosed with meningioma in 2012 but had continued to work; her last costume design was for the Marathi film … Athaiya credited her father with being “her guiding light”. Bhanu Athaiya just can't stop talking about what she loves best -- dressing up the stars. The film’s hero, Sunil Dutt, who played the ruler of Magadh, was given a “classical dhoti drape” in “plain and pleated silk” with a silver belt around his waist to convey his royal status. He died when Bhanu Athaiya was 10. She was the third of the seven children born to Annasaheb and Shantabai Rajopadhye. For his Shree 420 (1955), Athaiya worked on the costumes worn by second lead Nadira. At the 55th Academy Awards, Athaiya claimed the award for Best Costume Design (alongside her co-designer John Mollo), one of eight Oscars won by the movie … Athaiya was born in Kolhapur in Maharashtra of British India. If the film’s heroine, Vyjayanthimala, looked as though she had stepped out of a fresco, the effect was intended. Costume designer Bhanu Athaiya, who became the first Indian to win an Oscar, is no more. [2], Athaiya started her career as a freelance fashion illustrator for various women's magazines in Bombay, including the 'Eve's Weekly'. Chopra, Raj Kapoor, Vijay Anand, Raj Khosla, and Ashutosh Gowariker; and international directors such Conrad Rooks and Richard Attenborough. Her life may have been different if she had pursued her talent for painting. Her outfits combined Indian and Western styles and were worn by urban as well as rural characters. India's first ever Oscar winner, costume designer Bhanu Athaiya, has died at the age of 91. She was the first Indian to win an Academy Award, winning one for costume design for Gandhi in 1982. For Swades, Athaiya dressed up Shah Rukh Khan in casual and yet dapper shirts and jeans, a mark of his Westernised ways. Athaiya is survived by her daughter, Radhika Gupta. [14] On 15 December 2012, it was confirmed that the trophy had been returned to The Academy. My stepping in relieved them of this tension. Athaiya also created one of Mumtaz’s best-known costumes – a candy-orange, pre-pleated sari that resembled an ankle-length skirt. In her career spanning 50 years she has received numerous awards. Bhanu Athaiya pictured with “Gandhi” director Richard Attenborough at the 55th Academy Awards. Athaiya travelled to Mumbai as a teenager to learn painting at the JJ School of Art. First Indian to win an Oscar, Bhanu Athaiya wants to return her award. She won a National Film Award for her costumes. Bhanu Athaiya, the costume designer who became the first Indian to win an Oscar, for Richard Attenborough’s “Gandhi” (1982), died at her home in Mumbai Thursday after a prolonged illness. The iconic designer outfitted a host of actors in a long list of movies that include names like C.I.D (1956), Waqt and Guide (1965), Teesri Manzil and … Winner of an Oscar award, the pride of our country, yet so very humble. Bhanu Athaiya, the legendary costume designer whose creations shaped the look of Hindi cinema between the 1950s and the 2000s, died on Thursday at the age of 91 in Mumbai. She had been ailing for several years. The big league beckoned when Nargis introduced Athaiya to Raj Kapoor. Bhanu Athaiya (1929-2020): India’s first Oscar winner, creator of hit Bollywood moments and costumes for 60 years Bhanu Athaiya passed away in the early hours of Thursday in Mumbai. “Thank you, Sir Richard Attenborough, for focusing world attention on India.”. Credit: Michael Montfort/Michael Ochs Archives/Getty Images. Athaiya began designing individual pieces for films in 1953, including an outfit for Nargis for a song in Ek Tha Raja Ek Thi Rani, which began production in the late 1950s. She became the first Indian to win an Academy Award. Bhanu Athaiya made history on April 11, 1983, when she became the first Indian to win an Oscar. “Before I entered the scene, things worked very differently,” she explained in an interview with Rediff.com in 2010. “What one saw in the film industry was that the director and set designer would put their heads together and call in a tailor. Bhanu Rajopadhye Athaiya, the only Indian woman to bag an Oscar for Richard Attenborough’s 1982 classic Gandhi, passed away at 91 this October.“Mom led an amazing life. Her success as a designer soon led to her switching career paths. Athaiya was initially intimidated by the production: “The stark look of Gandhi’s dhoti was frightening in comparison to the razzle-dazzle of Hindi cinema,” she wrote in her memoir. 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